Exit 132 off Interstate 29 in Brookings, South Dakota, offers two possibilities. A right turn will take drivers through miles of farms, flatland that stretches to the horizon, cut up into grids by country roads and picturesque barns—a scenic route to nowhere in heartland America. But take a left at the light, and you wind up coasting through a college town of 19,000 that’s more than 95 percent white. The city’s small Latino minority—less than 1 percent of the population—is mostly students or faculty members passing though South Dakota State University. It was here, in late 2009, that I experienced an epiphany about Mexican food in the United States.
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